Sunday Highlights

Still waiting to hear how our local contingent has fared at Gloucester.  In the mean time, highlights from

Bosduin Kalmthout

http://www.vier.be/streaming/veldrijden.html

Behind the Barriers S3 E1

Finally!!

And while we're on the subject of video, last lap of NEERPELT

http://www.sporza.be/cm/sporza/videozone/MG_sportnieuws/MG_wielrennen/1.1442785

Gluing Tubulars - The Belgian Method - Part 2

So, like I said before, prep is key.  Which means know the process, and have the right tools.  So lets talk tools - here's what you need:

1)  Tubular rim

2)  Tubular tire

3)  Tubular Glue

4)  Belgian Tape

5)  Acetone

6)  Cloths or rags

7)  Acid brushes

8)  Medicine dropper needle thingy (someone help me out here)

9)  Wheel stand

10)  Gloves (optional)

11)  Apron or a crappy T-shirt

12)  Masking Tape

If you don't have a wheel stand, like me, you can rig one.  If you have a vice, or a bike mechanic stand with a clamp, put a small diameter screwdriver in the clamp/vice by the handle, so that the shaft sticks out horizontally.  You can slide your rim (with skewer/axle removed) over the screwdriver shaft so that it spins freely.  Voila.

Pictured above Left to Right

-  Acetone - bought at Canadian Tire for about $8.  Used for cleaning/prep of the rims and tires before gluing

-  Vittoria Mastik One Tubular Cement.  This is the stuff the pros use.  Bought off Ebay for about $20 shipped.

-  In front, acid brushes.  A pack of 5 is $2 or $3 at Canadian Tire.

-  Medicine thingy.  $1 at Shoppers Drug Mart.

-  Jantex Tape by Velox.  A more economical alternative ($7 on Ebay) than the $30 super roll from Cyclocrossworld.com

STEP ONE

You need to pre stretch your tubular tires.  This will save you later on when you are playing beat the clock with drying glue.  Mount them on the rim (no glue or tape), and pump them up to 80 psi.  Leave them overnight.

STEP TWO

Once you're stretched the tires, deflate and remove them.  Apply masking tape to the brake surface of your rims.  This will prevent glue from getting on them.

STEP THREE

Break out the acetone.  Using a rag soaked with the stuff, wipe down the gluing surface of the rim.  You'll be surprised how much stuff you'll pick up.  Also, wipe down the base tape (the beige gluing surface) on your tires.  This stuff dries almost instantly, so use generously.

STEP FOUR

Pump up the tires to about 40 psi.  This causes them to roll almost inside out, so that the basetape is turned outwards.  From here, you can fold the tire so you can hold it in one hand, like so:

Take the medicine thingy and suck up some glue until its full.  Apply a thin bead of glue along the centre of the base tape.  Then, using an acid brush, spread the glue over the entire base tape.  TIP:  Do this in sections along the tire.  Don't put glue on the entire tire, then try to brush it.  The glue dries too quickly and it become too tacky to brush.  I did a quarter section at a time.  Glue, then brush.  Glue, then brush....you get the idea.  Be generous with the glue.  The base tape of the tire actually absorbs quite a bit of glue.  You'll be surprise once dry, how much is actually left on the surface of the tire.  Repeat with the other tire until both tires have a generous coating of glue on the base tape.  Hang the tires up to dry - ensuring the base tape isn't touching anything.

STEP FIVE

With your rim now sitting on your fancy wheel stand (or rigged screwdriver jobby), apply a thin bead of glue along the centre of the rim bed.  Take the acid brush and spread the glue over the entire inner surface of the rim.  Make sure you get right to the edges. Again, do this in sections, the glue dries to fast.  You might get some clumps of glue into the spoke holes.  No biggie, just a fact of tubular life.  HOWEVER, make sure you don't allow glue to accumulate in the valve stem hole to the point where its obstructed!!  Repeat with the other rim.  Hang up the rims to dry.

DAY ONE is complete.  Allow both rims and tires to dry for 24 hrs.

STEP SIX

Today is a little different.  Day one, you did both tires, then both rims.  Today, you work with 1 tire/rim combo at a time.  Take your first tire, and marvel at how much glue was absorbed by the base tape.  Told ya!!  Apply a second coat of glue to the tire - same as day one.  Work in sections again.  Set the tire aside, but not too far.  You're going back to it shortly.

STEP SEVEN

Take your rim, apply another coat.  Same as yesterday.

STEP EIGHT

With that rim glue still tacky, take your JANTEX tape and start applying it to the surface of the rim bed.    Start at the valve stem hole and work your way around, making sure the tape is centred.   Press hard with your fingers to make sure there are no air bubbles under the tape.  This is where the optional gloves come in handy.  Once the tape is on, leaving a space for the valve stem hole, peel off the paper backing to expose the 2nd sticky side.

STEP NINE

Apply ANOTHER layer of glue on top of that tape you just applied.  Same as before.

STEP TEN

Here's the make or break step.  Time to mount the tire.  PAY ATTENTION TO THE TREAD PATTERN DIRECTION OF THE TIRE!!!  Take a minute to think which way it goes.  There's no going back if you mess that up.  Place a clean rag on the floor.  Take your rim with glue/tape on it, and stand it up vertically on the rag, valve stem hole pointing up.  Take that tire that you put a second coat of glue on minutes ago - deflate it.  Right about now you'll thank me for telling you to pre-stretch the tire in STEP ONE.  Insert the valve stem into the rim hole.  Now, working left and right of the valve stem, grasp the tire with your hands, and using your body weight, push down on the tire, stretching it downwards as you work the tire onto the rim.  Try to get the base tape centred on the rim as much as you can.  Work fast, that glue dries quickly.  If you put your weight into stretching that tire downwards, pick up the rim/tire off the rag, you'll have enough slack to pop the final portion of the tire onto the rim with minimal trouble.

STEP ELEVEN

Immediately pump the tire to 20-30psi - enough so that it takes shape, but it should still be very flexible.    Work around the tire, shifting and manipulating it so that it is centred on the rim.   Your first visual cue is that there is equal amount of base tape or sidewall showing on each side.  Also, spin the wheel and hold it in front of your eye - you'll be able to see the tread wobbling back and forth if the tire is not centred.  Again, work quickly.  By now, you've already noticed that glue dries quickly.  In my opinion, the tire doesn't have to be absolutely perfect.  You'll be running at low pressures anyway, so the tire is tread is going to confirm under your weight anyway.

STEP TWELVE

Once you are satisfied that the tire is centred, pump it up to 80psi.  Then place the rim/tire on the floor vertically.  Using your body weight, press down on the tire to give it that final "seating".  Work your way around the entire tire.  Remove the masking tape from the brake surface.  Set aside for at least 24 hrs to allow for a complete cure/drying process.

REPEAT STEP SIX THRU TWELVE WITH THE SECOND RIM/TIRE.

And you're done!!  Now go enjoy the awesomeness that is tubular.

Now, you're probably going to find somewhat similar methods online.  Take mine as it is.  As the race season progresses, I'll know better if my choice of methods was the correct one.

Happy gluing!!

Gluing Tubulars - The Belgian Method - PART 1

One of the reasons that people are turned off by tubulars is the so called "hassle" involved in mounting them.

Remember those commercials for stainmaster carpets, where it showed the clumsiest of the clumsy - reaching for that red wine and splattering it everywhere, eating ice cream only to have it mashed into the carpet while trying to clean it up?

Same goes for tubulars - people envision some guy in his basement, completely high on glue fumes, with his hands stuck together and a screwdriver glued to his face, completely delirious from the horrors he had just experienced.

Like anything, preparation is key.  That, and having a very good idea about the process you're about to undertake.  Hopefully, what I'm about to write will help.  Keep in mind that I did extensive research on methods and materials before I tackled this project.  My decision may not have been the correct one - only time will tell.  I could only go by what I have read and what others have told me.  So obviously, take it with a grain of salt.

METHODS

Like almost everything, there are many ways to skin a cat.  With tubulars, your choices are pretty limited - GLUE, TAPE, or BOTH.  Some swear by one method over another - usually based on their experiences.  I for one have yet to race on my setup, so the method I used is UNPROVEN for me - but it has been proven for many others.

TAPE - When I say tape, I mean TUFO tape.  TUFO tape is a robust 2 sided tape, meant to replace glue, whereas Belgian tape (which I will address in a bit) is meant to supplement glue.  TUFO says to only use it with their own brand of tires.  How well does it work?  I don't know - never tried it.  What have I read about it?  Quite frankly, according to most, it doesn't work as well as glue.  Have I seen it in action?  Yes.  Last year, the local LBS guy (who happens to be this year's Canadian MTB Champion in the Masters category) rolled his tire off the rim and it cost him the race.  So what are the pros of using TUFO tape?  Less mess maybe?  Less hassle?  That may be true, but its also very hard to remove once you take the tires off.

GLUE - Tubular cement is the formal name for this stuff.  Available from many manufactures - Continental, Vittoria, TUFO.  This stuff dries quick, and if you're not careful, gets EVERYWHERE.  Its quite viscous, making it slightly difficult to work with if you don't have the right tools.  But when it dries, whatever you have glued together, stays together.  Comes in tubes and larger cans.  It typically takes about 2 tubes per tire (at $4 per tube).  A can ($20) can probably do 10-15 tires.  The can is re-sealable.

BOTH using GLUE and BELGIAN TAPE - Another style of 2 sided tape, but not meant to work on its own.  Its not strong enough.  This tape is meant to be used in conjunction with tubular cement.  You apply layers of glue, then tape, then glue over the tape.  There seems to be only two "go to" brands out there:

1)  The stuff from Cyclocrossworld.com - This is the tape that Stu Thorne, mechanic for the Cannondale team, uses and swears by.  It comes in huge rolls for multiple sets of rims.  But that is the problem, you can ONLY get it in the huge roll, so its expensive (about $30 plus shipping).

2)  JANTEX tape by VELOX - Velox is well known for their premium rim strips, so no doubt that their tubular tape is good too.  One roll does a pair of rims - which is much better cost wise.  A roll can easily be found on EBAY for about $7 shipped to your door.

So my method - Glue (Vittoria) and Tape (JANTEX).  Known as the "Belgian Method", this process is said to have the maximum adhesion that meets the demands of cyclocross.  A cross tire is subjected to a lot of violent forces - lateral during turns, linear during acceleration and braking, and impact.  You need good adhesion to prevent that tire from rolling off the rim at the most inappropriate time.

To be cont......

Quick thoughts on the remount.

Last season, one my biggest weaknesses was my remount - that is, after I've jumped off my bike to run up a hill or negotiate an obstacle, I need to jump back on.

Surprisingly, there is some technique to it, and even more so if you want to be fast at it.

Take this guy for example:

He makes it look so easy!!

Fortunate for me, mine were never this bad:

But the key is to do it in one fluid motion like the first guy.  I always seemed to have little "skip" before I jumped on.  This totally slowed me down as I couldn't keep my momentum.  It also left me in a weird position that had me constantly hunting for my pedals to clip in - again, more time lost.

This year I think I have it down.  Don't jump onto the bike - SLIDE onto the bike.  Makes a world if difference!!

Quick and Dirty

Some videos to watch on your lunch break today.

Click the red NEXT PAGE button to switch between the videos.
ENJOY!!
http://velonews.competitor.com/2012/09/news/our-favorite-cyclocross-videos_238558

In the rear with the gear.....

Now for the part I like - gear.  Here's what I race on:

2011 Felt F75X.  Its a modest bike - not too out there as far as price goes, but light years ahead of that Tricross I had a year ago.  Aluminum frame, carbon fork, carbon seat stays, BB30, 105 5700.  It served me well last year with numerous wins and podiums in my categories.  But this year, I'm racing A - which means lots of fast guys.  Really, really fast.

Now will some of the stuff I've added to this bike make me faster?  Arguable....but it sure as hell won't hurt in my opinion.

The first thing I changed right away - brakes.  The factory brakes were Tektros.  They weren't horrible, but they weren't all that great either.  The worst part is that the caliper arms stuck out so far, that during a remount - twice - it caught on my leg and jammed it into the rim, lodging it between the rim and the frame.  Gladly, this only happened during warmup laps, but it made me think twice about jumping on my bike in any kind of reckless manner.

Enter Avid Shorty Ultimate

 
Those who race cross with any kind of seriousness know these brakes (by the way, I won't make any excuses for a dirty bike - its a cross bike - its supposed to be dirty, even after I wash it).

Fully adjustable, with the ability to tweak rebound tension, as well as pad toe-in (more on that later).  I've got them set up in the "POWER" configuration, where I sacrifice a bit of debris clearance for maximum stopping power.  You can set them up as just the opposite - lots of clearance for mud and guck, but not so much power.

I'm also using Swiss Stop brake pads, specific for carbon rims.  I haven't raced with them yet, but all I can say is the combo is nothing but very very favorable (having ridden with them on some very fast group training rides).  There is a bit of noise, but they work.

So who cares about toe-in?  Cantilever brakes are notorious for something known as "brake chatter".  Pull the front brake and the front of your bike vibrates and shakes almost to the point of loss of control. The solution?  Some say a fork mounted brake hanger - yes, helps some, but I swear by a little bit of pad toe-in.  By doing this, you induce just enough progressive modulation so that the pad doesn't grab all at once.  As a result, it doesn't induce that rapid vibration.

For more on brake chatter (or shudder):

http://velonews.competitor.com/2010/09/news/cyclocross/technical-qa-with-lennard-zinn-return-to-cross_101807

Next, rims and tires.  Probably the most IMPORTANT piece of a cross bike is your rim/tire combo.  As with most serious racers, I run a tubular setup.  Tubular you ask?

Tubular tires have a rubber casing with tread attached, but instead of using a separate inner tube (known as a clincher setup), the tube is built into the tire and the casing is sealed around it completely - leaving the tube entirely enclosed inside the tire.  The tires are then mounted on a rim using some kind of adhesive - glue or tape - or both.

The benefits are numerous - some of them being

1)  The tube has no chance of being pinched between the rim and the tire - a common cause for flats with a clincher setup.
2)  The tire does not need reinforced sidewalls to withstand the forces and pressures of clinching onto the rim.  This allows much more supple materials, which leads for a much softer, compliant ride.
3)  Because of the 2 above points, you can run much much lower air pressures, since there's no risk of pinching or tire sidewall failure - low pressure = better traction and rolling resistance over rough terrain.
4)  Because the rims don't need extra strength to hold onto a clincher tire, they are much lighter.
5)  Small punctures due to debris are a non-issue if you use sealant.

This illustrates the difference in shapes between a tubular rim and a clincher rim

The black represents the tire mounted on the gray "aero" rim.  The rim on the left is a tubular rim.  The tire sits more or less on top, with strength coming from the adhesive.

The centre and right show a clincher.  Notice the extra material required in the rim to hold onto the tire, and notice how the tire must have strength and rigidity built into it to clamp into the bead of the rim.  This contributes to the harsher ride associated with a clincher.  Now also picture an inner-tube lodged in there - any deformation of the tire sidewall can lead to a potential "pinch flat", there the tube gets pinched in that clamping area between the tire and rim.

What about the "bads" of a tubular?

1)  Tires are expensive.  They tend to be hand made, using more exotic materials.  A good tubular tire costs upwards of $100 to $120 - with premium ones reaching $200.  A clincher tire hovers around the $50-$75.

2)  The mounting process can be cumbersome and time consuming.  Depending on the method, it can take up to 2 days to mount a tire.  A clincher?  1-2 minutes.

3)  Poor adhesion can lead to failure.  The tire can roll off the rim if the glue or tape fails.  This can be a show stopper.

4)  Its difficult to change tires to suit the conditions of the course.  Once a tire is mounted, its on there for good - unless the glue fails or you literally tear off the tire.  Tubular fans typically have multiple rims with different tires to suit the conditions of the day ($$$$$).

5)  Similar to #4, if the sealant does not do its job and you get a flat, you can't exactly change the tire in a jiffy.  Back-up wheels with tires are a must in the pits.

So what am I running?

My race wheelset is a set of Boyd Cycling 38mm carbon tubular rims.  They are 23mm wide, as opposed to the standard 19mm wide road wheel.  This offers a wider gluing surface for the tires and helps the tire conform to the surface.  Boyd Johnson is a builder out of the USA.  He runs a stand up company and my experience with him was awesome.  Very high quality carbon rim, Bitex hubs and Sapim CX Ray aero spokes.  Check him out at www.boydcycling.com 

For tires, 34mm Vittoria Cross EVO XG.  Similar to the Challenge Grifo, its a fast tread with decent all round grip.  Its a jack of all trade tire, but not an expert at one type of course.  Its a good tire for someone (like me), who can only afford 1 set of tires.

My backup set:  the factory Felt clincher cross rims with 33mm Clement Crusade PDX tires.  I have nothing but good things to say about the PDX's.  They roll fast, and have super grip in high speed corners.  I have yet to shake them out in a race, but I have a good feeling about them (knock on wood). That said, they may never see a race if my tubular setup stays reliable.

One more thing - Crank Bros Eggbeater pedals - the best mud shedding pedals out there - love em.  I ditched my Shimano M520 pedals after 1 race.  I just could not clip in after any contact with mud or dirt.  The Eggbeaters have been flawless.

Up next, gluing tubulars....

A little history...continued.

How I got from that ill-fitting Tricross to my current race rig isn't all that interesting.  Needless to say I discovered cross during a casual conversation with staff at my current LBS of choice - www.radicaledge.ca - They told me about the action packed season they were looking forward to.  8 or 9 races in total, taking place in different areas across New Brunswick.  I had been riding now for just over a year doing strictly solo rides, but I wanted to race - this was my in.

I sold the Tricross and bought a Felt F75x.  It was lighter, faster, much better components - had everything I needed to get going.  I got myself an "end of year" licence from www.velo.nb.ca and ventured out for my first race in Dieppe, just outside of Moncton.  I entered "C" Category - reserved for new guys with little or no racing experience.  I had an absolute blast and ended up winning that race - won $50.

Throughout that season, I won a few more C races before moving to B Category.  I managed a few podiums by the end of the season and finished 3rd in the overall points.  I think I was on to something.  I wanted to get more serious - get better.

Fast forward to this year.  I've trained - alot.  Primarily via the Road season here in NB.  I entered 3 road races and 1 crit...all of which I did well again (2 road podiums, 3rd in the Crit).  I've also suped up the bike a bit, which I'll talk about in further articles.

Coles notes - been on a bike for 2 1/2 yrs, competitively for just under 1 - and I'm ready to tackle this season in A Cat - with the big boys - and I can't friggen wait.

Good morning!

Lots to write tonight....but in the mean time, USGP Day 2 Highlights

http://www.cyclingdirt.org/coverage/249747-2012-USGP-Planet-Bike-Cup/video/656535-Elite-Highlights-USGP-Planet-Bike-Cup-Day-Two?utm_source=twitterfeed&utm_medium=twitter

How it began and where I am now.

1991 or 1992 - I can't remember exactly, I walked into the local bike shop in Georgetown, Ontario - Ollie's Cycle and Ski - http://www.olliescycle.com - where I laid my eyes upon a pink and blue Concorde Sunrise mountain bike for the first time:

Chromoly frame and fork, 300LX drivetrain, biopace chainrings - all gucci in my books.

Every day I'd go to the shop on my lunch hour in high school and check out that bike.  I think it was around 400 bucks.  I cut lawns for months to buy that bike and I remember the day I rode it home with the tag still on the bars.  

For 2 or 3 years, my friends and I rode trails - almost every day after school.  We even attended a few group rides put on by Ollie's.  I remember taping Power Bars to my seat tube, just because I thought it looked cool.  I remember one ride where someone brought what I thought was a mountain bike with road bars on it.  I'd never seen anything like it.  When we got home, my friend stole the bars off his brother's Bianchi and tried to fit them on his mountain bike - needless to say it didn't work.

I continued ride the crap out of that bike - that is, until I got my driver's licence.  That rainbow Concorde sat in the shed, never to be ridden again.

Fast forward almost 20 yrs.  Just turned 35, now married, two kids, was heavy into Crossfit and jogging.  I got bored that program, and was injured a lot (self taught olympic lifting tends to do that).  I needed something different.  Hmmmm, maybe I'll buy a bike.

I went into the local bike shop (a different one this time, having moved away).  I made a completely uneducated impulse buy and walked out with a Specialized Tricross Triple.  Why did I buy that bike?  I liked the gunmetal paint job and seemed to fit properly while I stood over the top tube.

Little did I know about the lineage between the bike I just bought and that franken-bike I saw during that group ride 20 yrs ago.  I also had no idea where this ill-fitting Tricross was going to take me in so little time......

More to come, but for now, a Sunday night funny:

http://vimeo.com/49844623

Where do I start?

You're asking - Why I've decided to start a blog?  Seems like everything I have to say typically gets lost in forums where there are people much wittier than I am.  I figured I'd put my thoughts in one spot, for all, or just me, to read.  So lets have at 'er.

So what is it that I'm going to talk about?

This:

Cyclocross - bikes, racing, where I've ridden, people I've ridden with, gear I use, gear I want - and fun stuff I pick up along the way on Twitter, Facebook etc.

Hope you enjoy :)